Until, that is, the 1930s when foreign artists, lured by the blue skies, beautiful architecture and cheap cost of living, began to move in. These days, San Miguel continues to attract foreigners, particularly Americans, and the town is home to a large expatriate community.

This really is a fairy tale city dominated by the fantastical pink church, Parroquía de San Miguel Arcangel. Ochre and rose-colored colonial homes line narrow cobbled streets and on almost every corner you’ll discover a café or restaurant, gallery or boutique.

The pace of life is pleasantly slow, interrupted only by church bells chiming. Just be prepared for some hilly streets! If you’ll be visiting San Miguel de Allende with kids, here are my recommendations of 4 great things to do, 1 great place to stay, and 1 great place to eat.

Activity 1: Have Fun at the Toy Museum

Toy Museum at San Miguel de Allende, Mexico.

Your first stop when visiting San Miguel de Allende with kids must be Museo La Esquina, the city’s fantastic toy museum. El Museo is the work of Angélica Tijerina, an independent collector who began amassing toys as a child. But these are not your average toy store playthings. Over the years Angélica has accumulated over 1,000 unique Mexican folk toys.

The collection is housed over three floors within a coffee-colored colonial home, and includes train sets and doll houses, puppets and Mariachi bands and an entire corner dedicated to toys relating to Lucha Libre, Mexico’s traditional wrestling. Toys are created from wood, fabric, clay, papier-mâché, corn husks and more.

It’s a really fun place to enjoy with kids and, if you’re lucky, your visit may coincide with a children’s workshop or class held with local artisans. There’s also a very good toy shop on the ground floor.  www.museolaesquina.org.m

Activity 2: Tour the Streets on a Trolley Ride

Tour the city by vintage motorized trolley. First stop–the waterworks!

San Miguel’s cobbled streets are steep and little legs soon get tired. A better way to get a feel for the city is to climb aboard a trolley bus for a tour of the main streets and surrounding areas. Stops along the way include El Chorro, the town’s bougainvillea-filled outdoor waterworks and public laundry, and a lookout point with a picture perfect view of the city.

If you speak Spanish, then you’ll enjoy the on board commentary that explains a little bit about the history of San Miguel. The best seats on this antique-looking trolley bus are in the open-air section at the back, so hop on quickly!   www.operatur-imperial.com/tranv%C3%ADa.html

Activity 3: Walk on the Wild Side

El Charco del Ingenio at San Miguel de Allende.

On the outskirts of the pretty city streets is El Charco del Ingenio, an 88-hectare botanical garden and nature reserve. This untamed sanctuary celebrates the region’s diverse flora and is a wonderful place to wander. Winding dirt pathways lead through wetlands, past canyons and alongside a colorful array of cacti. Various lookout points afford some impressive views, including one over the eponymous canyon and freshwater spring.

There is a dedicated Children’s Garden where exhibits, such as the Scent and Touch Labyrinth, encourage kids to connect with nature. One tip, arrive early before it gets too hot and remember to bring water with you. Plan a treat stop at the small café next to the entrance.   www.elcharco.org.mx

Activity 4: Admire the Pink Church

La Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel

The dusty pink church, La Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel, is San Miguel de Allende’s most recognizable symbol. Its gothic spire towers above the city skyline and its position, in the heart of town, makes it impossible to ignore. Upon closer inspection, you may feel like you’ve seen this church before. And for good reason.

Originally built in the 17^th century, the church was given a facelift by a Gaudi-inspired architect in the late 19^th century. Hence the resemblance to La Sagrada Familia in Barcelona, Spain. Take a wander inside and then stop for a rest in El Jardin, the shady square opposite.   www.facebook.com/sanmiguel.org.ar

1 Great Place to Stay: Rosewood

View from the Rosewood, a great hotel option when staying in San Miguel de Allende with kids.

The handsome Rosewood hotel sits south of El Jardin, the main city square, at the bottom of a steep cobbled street. It’s a beautiful hotel, reminiscent of a traditional hacienda, with huge rose-tinted colonial-style buildings. This is the hotel to book if you want to indulge yourself. The rooms are luxurious, the restaurants are superb and there’s an excellent kids’ program that includes such activities as T-shirt decorating, piñata-making and painting lessons.

However, one of my favorite things about this hotel is the Luna Rooftop Tapas Bar. It’s best enjoyed at dusk with a margarita in hand when you can watch the sparkling lights illuminate the town.   www.rosewoodhotels.com/en/san-miguel-de-allende

1 Great Place to Eat: Cumpanio

You can eat very well in San Miguel de Allende. However, there’s one place that we returned to time and again (almost daily, in fact!) and that was Cumpanio. This restaurant and bakery became our breakfast go-to and it never disappointed. The chilaquiles were superb and the crepas de chicharrón (pancakes with pork crackling) were delicious.

But what kept us coming back for more were the pan dulce, literally “sweet breads” or pastries. In addition to traditional baked goods such as croissants and cinnamon rolls, Cumpanio produces Mexican staples such as conchas (a type of sweet bun that looks like a shell) and the most mouth-wateringly delicious cream-filled doughnuts. Needless to say, my kids loved this place! Cumpanio is also open for lunch and dinner.   http://cumpanio.com

For more help planning your trip, follow this link for our comprehensive guide to San Miguel de Allende with kids at Globetotting.

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La Paz, Mexico, as we learned on our recent three-generation journey, is a family travel adventure just waiting to unfold.

La Paz is located near the southern tip of the Baja California peninsula on the Sea of Cortez. It’s served by its own airport or can be reached in just over 2 hours when driving from Los Cabos (with a 70 peso toll).

When you get there, these are the 4 activities my family recommends you put at the top of your to-do list, along with 1 recommended place to stay and 1 great place to eat on your vacation in La Paz with kids.

Activity 1: Swim with a Whale Shark

Yes, even kids can swim with whale sharks in La Paz Bay–and that’s Grandma right behind her!

Swimming with whale sharks, which can grow up to 40 feet long in some parts of the world, has ranked high on my wish list for years. But last fall, after exposing my children to a few too many YouTube videos on the subject, they started thinking it was just as good an idea for them to swim with whale sharks, too.

With a little research, I learned that each October whale sharks migrate to the Sea of Cortez, with many wintering La Paz Bay through early March. Several outfitters offer half-day excursions from La Paz to seek out and swim with whale sharks—and yes! Even kids—and their grandmas—can swim with a whale shark (minimum ages may vary by outfitter and trip).

We opted for a full-day trip with Mar y Aventuras, which combined swimming with whale sharks and a visit to Isla Espiritu Santo (more on that in Activity 4). They outfitted us with snorkel gear and wet suits, and our bilingual guide Edgar taught us what we needed to know before jumping in with the first gentle giant. And not only did all three generations get to swim beside a whale shark estimated to be about 26 feet long, which I assure you was plenty long… I even got to use my trusty little Lumix to make my OWN whale shark YouTube video:

Activity 2: Ride Horses Along the Sea of Cortez

On horseback by the Sea of Cortez with Rancho El Cajon.

If you’ve had enough of horseback rides with nose-to-tail-to-nose nags who resent walking the same trail every…single…time, then a ride with Rancho El Cajon is sure to be a treat. Just 30 minutes from La Paz, Rancho El Cajon is a real working ranch and the horses are real working horses! Every ride is “custom-built” for the riding party’s wishes, from how long of a ride to where to ride, whether up to the ridge with sweeping vistas or along the glistening sea.

We opted for a 2-hour ride that took us through amazing saguaros towering two-stories high, then out to and along the Sea of Cortez, with a break to stretch our legs at a remote fishing village. I took photos of the sea birds the entire break (Herons! Pelicans! Egrets, oh my!).  In retrospect, we wished we’d brought a picnic to enjoy at the scenic stop–perhaps you can work that into your own ride.

It was a fantastic experience for us, but be aware that these are not “trail ponies” so it’s best if riders already have some experience and are comfortable directing their own horses. Book your family’s ride with Rancho El Cajon by calling Larry at the number listed on their Facebook page (he also leads mountain biking trips in the area) and reserve at least two days in advance.

Tip: For 50 extra pesos, you can upgrade to an “American saddle” (AKA western, and much more comfortable than the standard ranch saddles).

Activity 4: Watch Those Whales

Watching a humpback whale cruise past us while feeding in their usual sideways form.

Whale sharks are not the only giants calling on the Sea of Cortez. In late winter and early spring you may encounter whales here as well, including pilot, sperm, and humpback whales, not to mention the largest of all creatures on earth: blue whales. If you can come to La Paz in late February, you  may have the best chances of swimming with whale sharks and having a close encounter of the whale kind as we were so lucky to do (this chart from Mar y Aventuras may be helpful in planning your timing).

While there are many half- and full-day  whale-watching trips available from La Paz, Captain Beto simply took us on a slight detour–between our whale shark swim and visit to Isla San Espiritu–to where he’d seen whales frolicking the day before, and what do you know? We got close enough to three humpback whales to see their mossy barnacles, admire their baleen as they scooped through the water off our bow, and–surprise! Get soaked by their spray. What a day!

Activity 3: Visit Isla Espiritu Santo and Snorkel with Sea Lions at Los Islotes

Snorkeling with a mama sea lion at Los Islotes.

After our exhilarating swim with whale sharks and close-up whale watching excitement, our day trip with Mar y Aventuras continued with lunch at the outfitter’s exclusive kayaking camp on a gorgeous beach on Isla Espiritu Santo. From there, we motored on to Los Islotes, the tiny rock islands off the north end of Isla Espiritu Santo that serve as a nursery for mother and baby sea lions. We circled the main island, admiring the mamas and wee sea lion pups from the boat. And then? We were asked if we’d like to swim through the arch.

The arch?

As the boat slowed, a narrow passageway presented itself right through the middle of the island. It looked exciting enough to me, but I wasn’t sure how my kids–or mother-in-law–might do in the passage if there was much current or surge. Thankfully, our guide Edgar (with his diving fins as long as my legs) kindly offered to tow them along with the help of a floating buoy.

All three kids and grandma took him up on the offer, and when we first saw the stunning coral and marine life awaiting us under the arch, I was thrilled they were able to enjoy this experience along with the many others that day. Once through the arch, the first mama sea lion greeted us with a splash. And suddenly the first sea lion was swimming right next to us.

Our day trip with Mar y Aventuras ended with a cruise-by of blue-footed boobies, a visit to a frigate-bird rookery, and as if each experience was trying to outshine the last that day–we even saw humpback whales breaching and then got encircled by dolphins on our return. We were afforded extra flexibility (and time!) since we booked a private trip–which allows up to 6 people for a flat rate that came out to less than if we’d payed separately for the 6 of us to do a different day-long trip. Lunch, snacks, snorkel gear, wet suits, water, sodas, and our very knowledgeable bilingual guide were included.

1 Great Place for Families to Stay in La Paz: Paraiso del Mar

Paraiso del Mar condominiums and beach at La Paz, Mexico

If you love the sea but can’t stand crowded beaches, pay close attention to this photo. The only five people you’ll see in it are members of my family (two are out in the water). Located out on the “tombolo” of La Paz Bay, the Paraiso del Mar condominiums are best reached by water taxi.

Not to worry, it’s as fun to ride on as it is easy to catch (every 30 minutes in low season and 15 in high season). Guests and residents of Paraiso del Mar get complimentary water taxi service on “El Trolle” and use of the HOA’s kayaks and stand-up paddle boards, which you can launch right from the beach. All of this, of course, makes it an ideal place to vacation in La Paz with kids.

There is also an infinity pool and hot spa, tennis courts, and golf course. The “Survivor Bar” outdoor restaurant serves some of the best food we had on our trip and is conveniently located at the end of the swimming pool. be sure to make reservations for dinner, however, as they close early if things slow down. I found our 2-bedroom/3-bathroom vacation rental at Paraiso del Mar through a listing on VRBO, but you can see more available properties, photos, and prices on their website here.

Oh, and do keep an eye out on that water, as dolphin sightings are quite common. Better yet, I even got to paddle board with a pair! On our last morning, I spotted a dolphin from my place at the breakfast table. However, when we rushed out to the balcony we counted seven dolphins!

Tip: For a $30 fee, you can have groceries there to meet you at your condo when you arrive. And for $10 US you can rent a basic Mexican cell phone for your stay. WORTH IT! We had the condo stocked with three 11-liter jugs of water and most of our groceries for 6 people for the week. The total bill including the delivery charge and cell phone fee was $124 US.

1 Great Place for Families to Eat in La Paz: Restaurant Cuquita

Restaurant Cuquita awaits beside the sea in La Paz, Mexico.

Chances are you won’t find Restaurant Cuquita by chance–it’s where the Calle Nayarit ends at a small beach frequented mostly by fishermen and their pangas. (Could this have something to do with why the fish is so good here?)

It’s a great place to enjoy all manner of Baja fare and, if the kids finish lunch before you? Just send them out to play in the sand while you enjoy the rest of your feast (just make sure no one’s towing a boat in or out).

But if the kids catch sight of the enormous helados here–a coconut shell packed with coconut ice cream, or a small pineapple stuffed with pineapple ice cream? You may be here extra long waiting for the kids to finish up (unless they’re willing to share).

Get more:

For more help planning your family vacation in La Paz, see the websites for Visit Baja Sur and Go La Paz.

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For starters, there are museums galore (over 150 at last count) exploring everything from Mexico’s history to antique toys, there are pyramids and temples, charming colonial neighborhoods and modern skyscrapers plus bustling markets, leafy parks and much, much more.

So where to start? Check out these four family-friendly activities, plus one great place to eat and one great place to stay while visiting Mexico City with kids.

Activity 1: See the City Sights on the Double-Decker Turibus

The Turibus is a great way to get around bustling Mexico City with kids.

Mexico city is big! Get your bearings on the top deck of the Turibus, a double-decker tour bus that runs loops of the capital’s central neighborhoods daily from 9am until 9pm.

You can hop on and off wherever you like but the best place to begin is outside the Auditorio Nacional, the National Auditorium. From here you’ll journey through the heart of Mexico City including Chapultepec Park, the art deco colonias (neighborhoods) of Condesa and Roma, upmarket Polanco and the Centro Historico and the Zocalo – the historical heart of Mexico City.

Buses are supposed to run every 30 minutes but be prepared to wait, Mexico City’s traffic does not allow for a punctual service! The Turibus runs a number of routes but the Circuito Turistico is the best one. Website: www.turibus.com.mx

Tip! Avoid the Turibus on weekends if possible. The historical centre gets really busy and trying to jump on a return bus after sightseeing around the Zocalo is nigh on impossible.

Activity 2: Be Inspired at Frida Kahlo’s Childhood Home

Frida Kahlo’s bed at the Casa Azul in Mexico City.

Artist Frida Kahlo is considered one of Mexico’s greatest artists, and her childhood home is now one of the city’s most popular tourist attractions. La Casa Azul (the Blue House) is located in the charming southern neighborhood of Coyoacan, home to cobbled streets and brightly painted houses.

Much of the home remains as it was in the 1950s. Ten rooms are positioned over two floors, including the original kitchen and Kahlos’ studio. On display on the ground floor are works by Kahlo and her husband Diego Rivera as well as other prominent artists.

My kids found Kahlo’s bedroom particularly fascinating; a mirror faces down from her bed canopy so that she could paint her many self-portraits. You can read more about Frida Kahlo’s life and see photos of La Casa Azul in my feature Discovering Frida Kahlo’s La Casa Azul. Website:  www.museofridakahlo.org.mx

Tip! Plan your visit for when the museum opens, as it gets very busy. Weekdays are better than weekends.

Activity 3: FloatAlong the Colourful Canals at Xochimilco

A colorful, floating trajinera at Xochimilco in Mexico City

Once upon a time the Valley of Mexico, where modern-day Mexico City sits, was a vast lake system connected by canals and waterways. Today, very little remains of this ancient network of causeways and channels. However, you can get a glimpse of what the area once looked like in the neighborhood of Xochimilco.

Located in the south, Xochimilco is famous for its ancient waterways and floating along the rivers on a brightly colored trajinera (a Mexican-type gondola) is a very popular weekend pastime. Bring a picnic, hire a boat and spend the day cruising along the canals.

Read more about Xochimilco in my article at: http://globetotting.com/the-colourful-ancient-canals-of-xochimilco-mexico-city-mexico/ and see the official site at Website: www.xochimilco.df.gob.mx/turismo.html.

Tip! The canals get crowded at the weekend but this is also when they are at their liveliest!

Activity 4: Blow Giant Bubbles at Papalote, the Children’s Museum

Bubbles big enough for two at Mexico City’s Papalote Children’s Museum.

One of my kids’ favorite places to visit in Mexico City is Papalote, Museo de Ninos, the children’s museum. This innovative, hands-on museum is truly fantastic with over 288 interactive exhibitions designed for children to both learn and have fun.

Climb up an enormous man-made tree and then slide down from the top, step inside a gigantic bubble, put on a lab coat and set to work in the science lab or simply play on one of the playgrounds outside.

There are activities for children of all ages, with some areas reserved for older kids and some for younger. The Digital Dome shows a film about the universe and the IMAX theatre has films that change every few months. Website: www.papalote.org.mx

1 Great Place to Stay in Mexico City: The Red Tree House

This family room sleeps 4 at The Red Tree House in Mexico City.

Located in the charming colonia (neighborhood) of Condesa, the Red Tree House is a great option for families. This convivial B&B offers great family accommodation, including an apartment suitable for four people, and a tasty daily breakfast. However, it’s the location that really makes this a great option if traveling with children.

Mexico City can be too much at times, but Condesa oozes a laid back vibe. Stroll among Art Deco houses, great restaurants, friendly cafes, and small boutiques. And don’t miss its two very good parks, both with playgrounds!

This neighborhood is a world away from the hustle and bustle of the city center. What’s more, it’s wonderful base from which to explore the capital. Website: www.theredtreehouse.com

1 Great Place to Eat in Mexico City: Contramar

Family-friendly dining at Contramar Restaurant.

The always-packed Contramar is the place to go for fresh seafood cooked the Mexican way. This popular restaurant is open for lunch only (Sunday – Thursday 12.30pm – 6.30pm, Friday and Saturday 12.30pm – 8pm). While nothing fancy, the food is simply incredible.

Dishes you simply have to try include: tostadas de atun (fresh tuna tostadas), tacos de pescado al pastor (fish tacos ‘al pastor’) and the whole grilled fish, half roasted in a red chile paste and the other in fresh green parsley. My kids love the sopes (a thick tortilla topped with beans, cream and any number of fillings) and the homemade fish fingers. Website: www.contramar.com.mx

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